Today started out well, but didn't turn out to be a stellar day in trail history. I don't think we would have actually quit the trail, but at the end of the day, we came pretty close. We left Trapper John about 7:00 and the first part of the morning was lots of ups and downs, but nothing spectacular until the long, steep climb up Smarts Mt. It was a repeat of yesterday with a distinct lack of blazes in key places. This time we didn't backtrack, but there were a couple sharp turns that were real iffy. Got up to Smarts Fire tower in time for lunch. Easy 8, Cowboy and Pinnacle were already there. They'd passed us mid morning.

We decided to take a long lunch break and cook our big meal on top of the fire tower. That was a real treat. Fire towers are rare enough these days, but an unlocked one is even more rare. It was a beautiful, clear day, and the vistas from the top were spectacular. We felt rested when we started hiking again, but the feeling didn't last long. By the time we got to Hexacuba Shelter, we were pretty beat. We had intended to go further, so were just going to take a break at the shelter, then try to go on toward Mt. Cube. But once we got there, we weren't speaking to each other, so that was the end of the hike for the day. A good night's sleep should help.

The shelter itself is something I wanted to see after hearing so much about it. It's huge! It looks a lot like a wooden version of a yurt - a giant hexagon with a big beam center pole, built high off the ground with huge logs. By the time evening rolled around, a big group of Southbounders had come in, so there were many conversations going on around us. Under other circumstances, we would have joined in, but we weren't much in the mood to talk. Did get some good info on the trails in Maine, though. Tomorrow has to be a better day. (Shades of Scarlett O'Hara, eh?)

We left early this morning knowing we had the first big mountain of the North, Smarts Mountain, to climb. After a few pictures of the other hikers we were off. Since they are planning a longer day than us, we don't expect to see them again once they pass. Up until the first climb, the hike went fine. Once the trail got steep and confusing, the blazes disappeared again. This time we just pushed ahead. We stopped for a break on top of Lambers Ridge. Easy and Cowboy caught us and we all headed for the summit of Smarts. They were soon well ahead of us.

By the time we reached the top of Smarts, they were finishing lunch. We planned a long lunch break. It is a beautiful clear day so we carried our food and stove up into the old fire tower. We sat on the floor to escape the wind and cooked lunch. From the top we could see where we'd come from. To the North we could see Mt. Cube and Moosilauke.

From the top of Smarts, it's a long four mile downhill before starting the climb up Cube. A short distance before Hexacuba, we hit a nice stream. By this time my feet and blisters were really hurting. I wanted to stop for awhile to let them soak before continuing the climb. Linda wanted to push on. I guess she thought that if we stopped here, we wouldn't stop later at the shelter. Anyway, I got real pissed. I just charged up the hill to the shelter.

Once I got here and climbed into the shelter, I didn't know if I'd stay here tonight or continue on. After sitting around for five minutes, my mind was made up for me. I had made the last climb much too fast. As a result the lactic acid had built up in my legs and feet. Before I knew it, cramps hit me in both legs like a sledge hammer. I hugged the center pole of the shelter in major pain. First the cramps were in my front thighs then they migrated to the back, down into my calves and eventually my ankles were in pain.

I finally slumped into a heap on the floor. I lay there totally helpless and in extreme pain. After a lot of work, I was able to get out my sleeping bag and crawl in. As long as I didn't move I could keep the pain manageable. Soon the shelter began to fill up with South-bounders. There was little for me to do but lie there and let my legs slowly recover. It took over two hours until I was able to get up and walk again. One hell of a way to end a day.

We started off with a nice gradual down then we started up up up to the top of Smarts Mountain. The three and a half-miles were tiring but the last quarter mile was the worst. We were so tired at the top and it took so long that we had lunch with Easy, Cowboy and Pinnacle. We ate in the fire tower at the top. From the top, after lunch, was the easy part heading down the other side of Smarts. The trail from Smarts was not that bad. From the bottom we climbed back up to Eastman Ledges. From the Ledges it's about a half-mile to Hexacuba Shelter where we are for the night. The shelter is shaped like a hexagon. The privy is pentagon shaped and is named the penta-privy. Later some South-bounders showed up and we talked to them until we all went to bed.