Another 15+ mile day awaited us, so we were up and on the trail by 7:30. The Blankleys were planning on going as far as Icewater Springs Shelter, so they were up and around when we left. But, of the Lost Boys, only Seth had managed to emerge from his sleeping bag, so we figured they wouldn't get an early start. Like yesterday, the trail was generally good for the first few miles. Just mellow ups and downs over Mt. Guyot, then down toward the side trail to Cosby Campground (where the Lost Boys were headed). I left them a note on the trail sign telling them that if they drove down to Mountain Moma's when they were done, we'd buy them cheeseburger dinners. We never saw them again, so they probably headed straight back to Mississippi after their trauma on the trail. (Actually, it was pretty far over country roads from Cosby to Mountain Moma's, so it probably wouldn't have been practical to drive anyway.)

We had lunch at Cosby Knob Shelter, and after reading the accounts in the register, were glad the resident bear didn't make an appearance. We also noticed that Gutsy (GA-ME '96) was out in the Smokies for a few days. She'd been at Tri-Corner on the 4th, and here last night, so she was only a half day ahead, but she's probably just out for the long weekend, so doubt we'll catch up before she gets off the trail. Too bad, we'd love to meet her, after reading the journals from her thru-hike last year.

After lunch, we continued past Low Gap, then up toward Mt. Cammerer. The trail on this section was on a wide, well graded old road, so the climb was very easy. We commented that it would be nice if it continued this way all the way down to Davenport Gap, but we knew that would be asking too much. Of course, it was. From the top, the trail dived off in an eroded, narrow, steep, rocky mess. The last couple miles were much mellower, but by then, my blister ridden feet felt like they'd been through a shredder. My boots are just a bit too narrow across the instep, and my little toes on both feet have blisters on blisters. Now, if I could just cut them off…

When we did reach Davenport Gap, we still had nearly a 1.5 mile road walk down to Mountain Moma's. It was on a steep, gravel road, full of hairpin turns. Glad I was going down, not up. My pounded, shredded toes sighed with relief when we read the sign proclaiming in its best mountain slang "Y'all is about thar – jest around da nex bend". At Mountain Moma's, the order of business was cold drinks, pick up our supply box, and order cheeseburger dinners all around. After quenching our thirst and eating we checked into the bunkhouse. The Blankleys had told us to be sure and ask for the Honeymoon Shack. They have three bunkhouses: The Honeymoon Shack; The Hilton; and The Trailer. What makes the Honeymoon Shack in such demand (other than its tasteful pink color and cutout hearts over the door), is the fact that it has real spring mattresses and sheets, and not just bare foam pads. Since we were the only hikers there, we had no problem.

The rest of the evening was spent with the normal routine of showers, laundry and journal catch-up, interspersed with periodic trips into the store for more Dr. Pepper or ice cream. We were surprised to see the Blankleys drive up just before 8:00 to pick up the car they'd left. We hadn't expected to see them again, since they were going the other direction, and planned on stopping at Icewater Springs. But, when they got there, with only 2.9 miles between them, their car, and a motel and pizza, the pull was too great, and they went for it. Actually, it wasn't surprising at all – that's exactly what we would have done. We chatted for a bit, then they went on their way, but not before giving us a big hunk of fudge they'd bought in Gatlinburg. Yummm! Tomorrow, on toward Hot Springs.

I could tell by the cool breeze flowing across my face as I snuggled in my bag, that this morning would be different. I emerged to see sunshine filtering through the trees and dancing on the ground in front of the shelter. We were greeted with a crisp almost autumn like morning. There was just enough chill in the air to add a little zip to the morning camp chores. We scurried around talking in hushed tones so as not to disturb the others sleeping.

This would be another long day for us. The end of the Smokies was calling. With only a few more days left in our southern hike, we were eager to continue. I was glad for the clear morning air; I didn't want to miss the views. Trail conditions again proved excellent as we traveled along the narrow spine of the Smokies.

We stopped at Cosby Knob Shelter for lunch. The register made frequent reference to a bear that stays in the area. The last sighting was just a few hours earlier. Just to be safe we ate lunch behind the protective chain link fence of the shelter. The register also had and entry from Gail "Gusty" Johnson AT '96 and a member of the AT-L mailing list. She was at the shelter last night and Tri-Corner Knob the previous one. I had read her journals and it would have been nice to meet her.

After a long traverse of the ridges, the AT begins it's decent to Davenport Gap. The trail appears to travel an old rocky and eroded road. At first we were worried that our feet would be beat to a pulp with the rocks. Soon the trail improved and we had a beautiful and pleasant decent.

At the gap we had a mile plus road walk to our destination of Mt. Mama's tonight. We picked up our final mail drop before Hot Springs and got one of her famous Cheeseburgers. The Pigeon River runs right behind the store. I found a nice spot to relax, watch the river and get caught up on the journals.

Today we left "The Lost Boys" and the other family and headed on to Davenport Gap. We hiked a pretty mellow up with some downs mixed in. When we go to Snake Den Ridge Trail it was all up and down until we got to Cosby Knob Shelter. We stopped there for lunch. After that it was down to Low Gap and back up to Spur Knob. From there it was down down down to Davenport Gap. When we got there we walked 1.3 miles to Mountain Moma's. We checked in and had their famous Cheeseburgers. We went back to the bunkhouse and mom did laundry while we wrote in our journals. We're staying tonight in the little pink honey moon shack.