The rain was pouring when we woke up this morning, so we dallied a bit getting ready. Tried to catch a weather report on the little black and white TV in our room. It only got a couple stations, but we tuned into the morning shows. We haven't seen any TV, or heard much news since we've been out here. So what's the first thing we hear when we turned on the TV this morning? Mike Tyson bit off Evander Holyfield's ear in a fight last night! I could have blissfully lived the rest of my life and never heard that wonderful bit of news. Also, today is the day that Hong Kong returns to Chinese control, so that is the major world media event. I think we're better off in the woods, rain or no rain.

By the time Jeff took us back to the trail, the rain had tapered off to a drizzle. We made a quick stop at the Post Office to mail a few things home. We also had some letters from home, including one from our friends, Hugh and Jackie, who have adopted our Black Lab, Twilight for the summer. They included pictures of our 90 pound baby, so it was good to see her looking happy and healthy.

We started our hike across Fontana Dam, then up the road to where the AT goes off into the woods and officially enters the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Even with the cooler air, the humidity was still stifling. The initial long climb up to the ridge was well graded, but we were drenched in sweat before long. The day remained wet and overcast, so there wasn't much chance for views. We arrived at Birch Spring Shelter in time for lunch. The afternoon was a frustrating roller coaster of muddy, terribly eroded trail. Horses are allowed in much of the park, and the damage was obvious. Also, tall grasses and blackberries overgrow many sections. It makes walking very treacherous and tiring.

We stopped for a refresher break at Mollies Ridge Shelter, then continued on to Russell Field Shelter for the night. We were expecting to see a lot of hikers today, but were surprised to pass only a handful of people all day. We have the shelter to ourselves. That surprises me even more, especially since it's so close to the 4^th, and a long holiday weekend. In the Smokies, you are supposed to camp in the shelters, because of the active bear and wild boar population, so anyone in the area would have to camp here. You also have to get a backcountry permit, and unless you are a thru-hiker, make reservations for the shelters. We were able to pick up a permit from Jeff at the motel yesterday, so didn't have to make a special trip for one.

We changed into our warmer clothes, then made dinner. We are now spending a pleasant evening enjoying the quiet, grassy field where the shelter is located. Hope for clear weather tomorrow.

The sound of water splashing from the traffic flowing in front of the motel gave me an early weather report. The temperatures would be cool, but the thought of rain did not make my day. I was hoping for some good views as we climbed the Smokies. Rain clouds are real view killers.

By the time Jeff dropped us off and we started across the dam, the rain had tapered off. True to their name, the Smokies were shrouded in clouds. By the time we reached the side trail to the lookout, we could barely see the tops of the trees.

The trail climbing the ridge was in good shape, but we never seemed to get moving. We stopped at Birch Spring Shelter for lunch and water. I was quite surprised how trashed it appeared. The whole area in front of shelter was a sea of mud. I hoped this isn't an indicator of the other shelters in the park. I was also surprised at how few people we saw on the trail. We passed only four people this morning and this should be a peak week in the park.

After we left the shelter, the trail conditions continued to deteriorate. It is obvious that trail maintenance isn't a high priority here. Somewhere in the back of my mind, I pictured the trails as fast and easy. I guess that's the effect of memory degeneration over twenty years. Today we often slogged through mud. Taking two steps forward and sliding one step back. I guess that explains why I never felt we were making much progress.

Our day ended at Russell Field Shelter. It is located on top of a ridge in a field of ferns with widely scattered trees. It makes for a scenic spot. What's amazing is that we have the whole shelter to ourselves. The forecast for tomorrow is clear skies. That's good, because I hope to get at least one good view before we get to the White Mountains.

Today we left Fontana Motel for the trail. We left around 9:00 and walked about one mile on the road over the dam to the trailhead. We hiked and hiked and it was muddy and wet and the trail was eroded. We reached Birch Spring Shelter and had a quick lunch. Then went on to Mollies Ridge Shelter where we stopped for a snack. From there we came here to Russell Field Shelter where we are tonight.