We're a bit low on fuel, so ate a cold breakfast of (gag!) pop tarts and granola, and set off from Wine Spring around 7:45. It was a quick trip up to Wayah Bald, and the sun was burning off the morning mist when we arrived at the stone observation tower on top. It was still way too early in the morning for tourists, so even though there's a paved road all the way to the top, we had the place to ourselves. This was one place both Ronald and I remembered from '77. We have a slide of Ronald standing on the stone ledge, with arms outstretched like a monarch addressing his subjects. Can't do that now, because there's a roof and a railing to protect the tourists. Still, it felt good up there, with a soft breeze blowing in the quiet morning sunshine.

From Wayah Bald, we had a long descent down to Licklog Gap, then up and over another ridge to Burningtown Gap. Stopped at Cold Spring Shelter, part way up Copper Ridge for an early lunch and "beat the humidity" break. Fixed our spaghetti and decided since it was only noon, we would walk as far as Wesser Bald Shelter. That would put us closer to the Nantahala for tomorrow. That turned out to be the best decision we've made in a long time (more on that later). We were really glad not to be stopping here for the night. Cold Spring Shelter is right on the trail, and not very inviting. It's an old shelter, and very dark, small, dirty and smelly. But we cooked outside and there was a great spring right in front, so it was fine for a lunch break.

The wildflower enthusiasts from yesterday passed by us again, so we were afforded another quick botany lesson. The man we talked with yesterday filled our heads with more species names (which, I'm sorry to say, I promptly forgot). He chided us for not having a wildflower book along, and not taking more time to "stop and smell the roses", so to speak. He's right, of course. We should know more names of plants that grow along the trail. But when you're grinding up or down a hill, trying to make it, you don't always pay close attention to things like plant names. I've certainly noticed many beautiful wildflowers along the trail, and I do appreciate their beauty. I just don't take the time to identify each species. My father-in-law, Tom, is also a wildflower enthusiast and photographer. I wish I had the patience to learn to identify all the plants. In another life, perhaps.

After lunch, we continued down the long, long 1,200-foot descent to Tellico Gap. Along the way we passed a huge and very strung out Boy Scout Troop (distance wise, I mean). We kept passing them all the way down. Along the way it started to drizzle, and we were entertained by watching the odd assortment of rain gear being hastily donned by the passing scouts. Saw lots of garbage bags and plastic ponchos. At Tellico Gap, we stopped to take a quick break before the climb up to Wesser Bald. But just as we arrived, the skies opened up and a thunderstorm let loose its fury right over our heads. We slurped down a quick drink, then literally ran up and over the bald and down to the shelter. The last mile there was lightening striking over us, and thunder so close it was deafening. We made those 2.2 miles in record time. It's amazing what a motivator the threat of becoming a crispy critter from a bolt of lightening can be! There's an observation tower at the top of Wesser Bald, but that was the last thing on our minds as we ran by the top. The trail was running like a river and we were soaked to the skin. It was no longer a question of stepping around puddles to keep the boots dry.

Wesser Bald Shelter was a blessed sight as we slogged in at 4:00. Any shelter would have looked good now -- even the junky Cold Springs shelter from lunchtime. But this was another of the new style shelters with a tin roof and a huge overhang. We ran under cover like drowned rats, and quickly exchanged our soaking wet hiking clothes for warm, dry camp clothes. Sipping hot soup from the comfort of our sleeping bags, we were content to sit out the storm. It continued to rage for a couple hours, and included a burst of hail, just for good measure.

Now, several hours later, we are still cozy, warm and dry. We're especially thankful we didn't stop at the campsite three miles back, as originally planned. We'd be awash in a sea of mud and miserable right now. I can imagine the Boy Scouts are thoroughly drenched by now. There are way too many of them to fit into any shelter, especially Cold Springs. Hope they have good tents.

A while ago, a solo hiker came in for a few minutes. The thunderstorm has passed, but it is still raining, and there's always the threat of another. He'd just hiked up from NOC for an overnighter, and he was very intent (no pun intended), on tenting at the top of Wesser Bald. Something about a fond memory from the past… We offered to move our stuff to make space. We're all spread out, but only because there was no one else here. He said thanks, but he was going on. Said he was saving up to thru-hike the AT in '98 or '99. We suggested he subscribe the AT mailing lists. He's seen the Wingfoot Trailplace Site, but is still in the early stages of planning. There's much left for him to do.

The rain is gently dripping off the trees onto our tin roof. It's a very soothing sound. Nearby, birds are chirping, and the aroma of the scented candle someone left in the shelter has filled the air. I'm ready to fall asleep, content and thankful.

When we left camp this morning, our stated goal was to camp near Tellico Gap. That would split the distance to NOC. Linda didn't want to commit to more miles because she wasn't sure how her feet would hold up. Her blisters are still causing her fits. After hiking a while, the pain will dull. That is until you step on a rock or root wrong. Then bang! A sharp pain.

The hike to Wayah Bald was quick. The monument on top was the same as in '77. They have added a roof to it and there is now a parking lot, restroom and paved trail leading to it. There isn't much of a bald left. Without the stone structure on top, there would be no views. This morning clouds blocked our views. So a couple of pictures and snack later, found us hiking again.

By 11:30 we reached Cold Springs Shelter. Built out of solid logs, it's one of the few old shelters left. Even though run down, it would still look good in a rainstorm. Linda suggested that we stop and fix one of our dinners for lunch. The long break would allow us to recoup enough to make the six miles to Wesser Shelter tonight.

After an hour's rest and a great spaghetti lunch, we felt well fortified to strike out again. A short time later the rain started falling. About that time we started passing a group of thirty-three Boy Scouts. The entire troop was spread out over a distance of two miles. We finally passed the adults at the end of the pack. This is a case where there were just too many. They should have been split into a number of smaller groups. In addition to there being too many, they were poorly prepared. Many of the smaller scouts were struggling under packs too big and too overloaded.

By the time we passed the end of the scouts, we were at the point we had originally planned to stop. With a light rain falling it didn't look very inviting. So we continued on to Wesser Shelter. By the time we reached Tellico Gap, I was hot and tired from the long muggy descent. We were looking forward to short break and candy bar before climbing Wesser Bald. Just as we crossed the road, the skies opened up and the real rain began.

We could hear thunder not far off. A quick stop to review the map and we were off. With no time to rest, I was surprised how fast we were climbing the hill. Since we were all soaked, only the heat generated by climbing kept the chill from the cold rain at bay. The higher we climbed the harder the rain fell. Then the thunder and lighting starting flashing all around us. The last thing I wanted was to get killed on that mountain.

Shortly before we reached the top, a gentleman out walking his dogs came up behind us. He sure picked a hell of a day to go for a hike. He said he was out getting in shape for his thru-hike attempt next year. Since he was wearing blue jeans and a cotton shirt, I hope he dresses more adequately on his thru-hike. After exchanging a few pleasantries, he headed up to the observation tower while we pushed on for the shelter with all due haste. The last thing I wanted to do was climb a tower in a lighting storm.

Although the rain had died down on the climb, the storm was very close. It took little encouragement from me for us to fly down the mountain. We could literally feel the storm closing in. Shortly we saw a flash of lighting followed by the instant sound of thunder. Lighting struck just up the ridge between Linda and Brandon. Probably less than two hundred feet, and definitely too close for comfort. By now the rain was falling in torrents and the trail was filled with rushing water. The thunder and lighting literally chasing us down the mountain. It was a great relief when we hit the side trail to the shelter. A few steps later we were safe and sound beneath its protective covering.

Soaking wet, we quickly changed to dry clothes then crawled into our sleeping bags. Deep within the bowels of the shelter lying in our bags, we watched the storm progress. Flashes of lighting striking nearby trees and thunder rocked the shelter. Soon the rain changed to hail. The roar of hail stones hitting the tin roof was so great that we had to yell to talk to each other.

After and hour the storm died down enough for me to venture out to get water. The rain returned on my way back, but I was able to get under cover before getting soaked again. A short while later another hiker came in to rest. He had spent the bulk of the storm crouched under his tent fly. After a short rest, he left for the top. He was determined to camp at the tower. It's been raining off and on since he left, so I hope he's safe.

For us, we're safe and secure. Brandon's lying in his sleeping bag listening to the radio. Linda and I are finishing up our journals. The rain continues it soothing dance on the roof. A bayberry candle, someone left sits between us giving off a warm light and soft scent. All is well with the world. Tomorrow it's onto NOC and a needed break.

Today we left later than usual. We chose to ignore the alarms but we hiked just as far anyway. We left around 7:45 and hiked down from Wine Spring, then up to Wayah Bald. We had a snack and headed on to Cold Spring Shelter where we stopped and decided to have dinner. Afterward we would go on and hike farther than planned. We had spaghetti and continued hiking. We passed a group of thirty-three Boy Scouts headed for Burningtown Gap. We hiked down to Tellico Gap where it started to pour. We hiked really fast to the top of Wesser Bald. We met a thru-hiker wanna-be with two dogs. He was trying to get his dogs into shape for when he hikes the trail. We continued to hike fast down the other side of Wesser Bald when it really started to pour. I would have been drier in a swimming pool. We reached the shelter around 4:00, changed into dry clothes and got comfy. We were here for about three hours when another thru-hiker wanna-be hiked up. He was on a backpacking trip for two days that he got off work for. Cold and wet day overall.