The rain started to pour around 6:00 this morning. Ronald and I could lie in bed and look out the window to the socked in hills across the river. We knew we couldn't get a shuttle back to the trail until 9:00 anyway, so we went back to sleep, hoping it would let up before we had to leave. Fortunately, the rain passed by 7:30, so we packed up leisurely and walked up to the store by 9:15. Settled our bill (sticker shock!!), then got a ride back up to Wallace Gap. The guy who gave us the ride is quite a character. Ronald talked to him yesterday on the ride into Franklin. He's thru-hiked the AT five times since 1978. He works at the campground during the summer, hikes a couple months each fall, and then does security work in Virginia Beach in the winter. He also went to school in Eugene, Oregon where we used to live. Sounds like he likes a life free of permanent ties.

Meanwhile, back at the trail, we finally started our hike at 9:40. The trail meandered up, over, and around some densely forested areas, then came back down to the highway at Winding Stair Gap. Along the way, we ran into Will, the leader of the Eagle's Nesters. The group had already gone, but he likes to give them a head start, then hike "sweep". They are planning to get beyond Wayah Bald tonight.

Stopped at the gap for a quick snack and water from a piped spring, then crossed the highway. Quickly came by a beautiful waterfall nestled into the trees, and had to stop and take a quick picture. The weather was quite gray and threatening, so it gave an eerie quality to the trail today. Continued up toward Siler's Bald. Passed part of the Eagles Nesters group around Panther Gap. They were mending blisters beside the trail. I can certainly identify with dilemma, although mine are less inflamed today than yesterday.

The humidity was very high even for a cool day. It doesn't take long to totally sap your strength. The trail to the top of Siler's Bald was longer than we expected. Brandon and I were ready to stop and eat lunch beside the trail, but Ronald really wanted to go on without stopping. We had a little "disagreement" about goals, so Ronald took off for the summit, with Brandon and me about five minutes behind.

The AT doesn't go directly over the summit of Siler's Bald. You can see it in the distance, but it's about a 1/4-mile side trail. However, it's straight up a path through the tall grass, so narrow you can barely put both feet side by side. I know I sweat a gallon just getting up there. The view from the bald was striking, with unobscured vistas. Dark gray storm clouds were rolling in, but that just continued the eerie quality we'd had all day. Unfortunately, Ronald was still in a snit, so we didn't stay long. He took off before we did, and said he'd meet us at Wine Spring Bald where we were planning to camp tonight. I figured we'd see him before long, though, because he didn't eat any lunch, and we had all the food and the water pump.

Anyway, Brandon and I finished lunch, then made our way back down the goat trail the AT. The trail down to Wayah Gap was uneventful. We stopped and pumped water just before the gap. When we crossed the road, there sat Ronald (feigned surprise!). He said he just wanted to make sure we didn't get lost. Actually, it was his way of saying, "I'm hungry and thirsty, and I'm sorry for being a jerk earlier." We took a quick break, then headed up to Wine Spring.

That was also a longer climb than we expected, and it seemed even worse, because it more or less parallels the Forest Service road that would have been much easier walking. Sweat another gallon on the way up. About a half mile from the top, the trail finally crossed the road. We stopped at a spring to rehydrate before the final push. Several cars came driving by very slowly, with people hanging out the windows, pointing and looking intently at something. Then, suddenly, one man jumped out near us and crashed up the bank into the brush. I asked him what he was looking for. It turns out they are a group of wildflower enthusiasts on vacation from West Virginia. He started spouting off names of all sorts of plant species in the area. It was too much to take in all at once, but he did clarify on thing for me. The lovely sweet scent, similar to honeysuckle, which we've smelled for the last week, is a white azalea that's common to this area. We thanked him for the mini botany lesson, and went on to finish our push to Wine Spring.

Set up camp quickly, since it started to sprinkle. However, it never really rained, so the evening was very pleasant. Ronald and Brandon played cards, and tried to find a radio station that would come in on Ronald's mini-jogger's radio. He'd forgotten about having it until this morning, so today was the first time we used it. Brandon was in seventh heaven! Reception was spotty, but he rocked out whenever he could tune in a rock station for a few minutes. Certainly more country stations around here, though, so he may have to compromise his musical tastes (Twang! Twang!). Tomorrow, Wayah Bald and beyond.

It was a pastoral view from our bed by the cabin window this morning. I could faintly hear the babble of the river mixed with the sound of rain on the roof. Clouds hung heavy on the ridge across the river. It was still early when my eyes first opened. I could afford a few more minutes of luxury before starting the process of trail preparation.

The falling rain did little to encourage us to rush to leave our little dry oasis. By the time breakfast and packing was complete, the rain was gone. With nothing left to retain us, we paid our bill and caught the shuttle back to the trail. It was 10:00 by the time we started hiking. It was still over six miles to the top of Siler's Bald. I wanted to stop there for lunch.

Since we're entering the Southern Bald region today, I've been looking forward to the balds with their extensive views. The relatively good trail this morning allowed us to make reasonable time. It was 1:30 by the time we reached Siler's Bald. By this time the afternoon thunderstorms were beginning to build and the skies became overcast. This severely limited our views.

To compound problems, the stress of the last couple miles led to short tempers. Few civil words were exchanged as we sat atop the bald. I took the opportunity to hike ahead for awhile until we all had a chance to calm down. For the most part hiking with a family is fantastic. At times individually we'll have different agendas. This will tend to lead to stress that will eventually surface. It is extremely rare for non-married hiking partners to start and complete the trail together. When Linda and I arrive at these impasses, I find it best to hike separately for a few hours until nerves calm down.

We all linked back up at Wayah Gap before starting the climb up to Wine Spring. The increasing humidity was starting to affect our climb. The climb took a lot out of us even though the trail was not difficult. By the time we arrived a storm was threatening. We set up the tarp quickly, filled our water bag and settled down for the siege. This time the storm passed leaving us nice and dry.

Today we left Rainbow Springs and I was feeling better than I did yesterday. I had a little fever and I took some Tylenol and feel better now. We got packed up and walked to the store where we paid our bill, and they gave us a ride up to the trailhead. From the trailhead we went up and down and finally started coming down to Winding Stair Gap. We had our snack and filled up on water. We started hiking again and Dad gave me the radio to listen to. I was hiking in front of them and had nobody to talk to. So I listened to the radio for awhile and heard some old songs. I couldn't find a station with new ones. We climbed up, and up, and up until I thought I couldn't walk any more. When Dad told me it was still a little further till we could stop for lunch, I wanted to die!!! We finally got to Siler's Bald for lunch and I was so glad to stop. After lunch, we hiked with Dad in front until we got to within two miles of our destination. I took the lead and we hiked up to Wine Spring where we are tonight.