I didn’t' sleep very well last night, mostly because my bite ridden, swollen feet just about itched me to death. I had weird dreams all night about not being able to keep hiking, and what I should do. I kept waking up in a cold sweat. Fortunately, by morning, some of the swelling had gone down, and when I put my boots on, the pain was tolerable.

At 8:30 we went to the house for a wonderful breakfast of sausage, lighter than air pancakes with blueberry sauce (of course), cheese biscuits, orange juice and coffee. Gary and Lennie always eat breakfast with the hikers and get to know them better. They seem to remember just about everyone, which is pretty amazing. Especially since they've already had over 500 hikers this season alone. After breakfast we took pictures of each other, then Gary drove us back to the trail. I'm sure they have their own trials and tribulations, just like any other family, but they sure seem to be living an idyllic life, being relatively self sufficient, and keeping things simple and focused. I'd like to work toward that type of life, but it will probably never happen, so I'll just make the best of the one I have.

When we got back to the trail, Patches and Sunny White Dog were there, so we chatted again before heading up the trail. Gary agreed to give Patches a ride into town, and we started up toward Plumorchard Gap. The late start and the big breakfast didn't do much for our hiking speed, but the trail was good, so we made it to Plumorchard Gap Shelter for lunch. What a ritzy shelter! They call it The Plumorchard Hilton. It's a new triple-decker! Never seen one of those before. It sleeps at least 18. A large group from the GATC was out doing trail maintenance and shelter repair, so we stayed a little longer than normal to visit with them. Talked to a woman (trail name Mountain Goat), who thru-hiked a few years ago. Her 26-year-old son (trail name Gruff) is hiking this season. She told us that while she was hiking, her house burned down. When she called home, and her husband told her the news, her first thought was "There's nothing I can do about it, so do I really need to come home?" Spoken like a true thru hiker!

After leaving the shelter, the day turned dark and we started hearing thunder. The rain held off for an hour or so, but finally let loose. We were soaked in minutes, but it was still warm, so didn't matter much as long as we kept walking. We crossed the Georgia/North Carolina line and took a couple pictures as we entered our second state. Almost immediately, the trail took a turn for the worse. We hadn't scoped out map very well, and weren't anticipating much in the way of climbs before Muskrat Creek Shelter. Wrong again! Right out of Bly Gap was a killer little uphill to Sharp Top, over rocks and roots, then down to Sassafras Gap, and another little killer up to the ridge before Muskrat Creek. At least by then it stopped raining, but we were really dragging tail by 5:00 when we limped into the shelter. We decided the trail was designed by the Marquis de Sade. Pain, agony and no view as a reward. Somewhere a trail builder laughs an evil little laugh whenever an unsuspecting hiker passes this way. The only point of interest along the way was a peacock strutting his stuff beside the muddy trail coming down to Sassafras Gap. Now, where did he come from? I don't think peacocks are indigenous to this area. Go figure…

After reviving ourselves with a cup of warm soup and dry clothes, we started reading the shelter register. Entry after entry blasted the climb over Sharp Top out of Bly Gap, so it wasn't our imagination. Must be a different group who designs shelters, because this shelter is great! It's brand new and built with heavy logs like a log home, with a tin roof and a large overhang with benches and a heavy table. Not a multi-story like Plumorchard, but very classy digs nonetheless. The stream is close by, and it even has a privy. We had the place to ourselves, so spent a relaxing evening for our first night in North Carolina.

Things always seem to run in slow motion on mornings when you're not on the trail. This morning was no exception. All of the real work with the packs was done yesterday. There were just a few final adjustments to make before having breakfast with Gary and Lennie.

Fluffy pancakes, cheese biscuits, juice and coffee make a much better breakfast than we've had lately. It certainly provided enough fuel for our morning's hike. With pictures taken and good-byes over, we piled into the back of Gary's van for the trip back to the trail. Starting at 9:45 is latest start on the trail. Generally I like to get in four miles by 10:00, however; today's exception was greatly appreciated.

With packs shouldered, we were off to Plum Orchard Shelter for lunch. As we progressed along the trail, the skies began getting more overcast. About a mile short of the shelter, the rain came. It mattered little to me. I was already wet from sweat and the light rain just made me cooler. Arriving at the shelter, we were greeted by a crew of trail maintainers doing repairs. Plum Orchard is an exceptional shelter. With three sleeping platforms and a covered concrete pad, it's the fanciest shelter I've ever seen. Apparently it was flown in completely assembled by a helicopter.

The rain had abated and we sat with the crew at the picnic table to eat lunch and talk about trail conditions. One of the crew members, a spry grandmother, had completed her three year trail hike odyssey a couple of years back. Her son is currently on the trail doing his thru-hike.

We didn't want to leave but there were still seven more miles to hike. For the next couple of miles we passed several trail crews. Shortly after passing the last crew, the thunderstorms that had been moving our way arrived. This time the rain poured. There was no sense putting on rain gear. We'd have gotten just as wet from the sweat. So we hiked along in the pouring rain, assured that we had warm dry clothes in our pack when we made camp.

Finally the rain let up, but the storms were never far away. With constant flashes of lighting and thunder pounding around us, it was quite nerve wracking hiking along the ridges. When the clouds rolled in and it got darker, it began looking like a B Grade horror movie. By the time we reached the state line between Georgia and North Carolina, the storms were behind us.

Shortly after at Bly Gap we encountered the NC Grind. The Grind is a section of the trail that climbs straight up to Sharp Top with no switchbacks. This certainly was not the same trail as '77. It was a lot harder. The real pain to me was the fact that after all the hard work, there was no view from the top. I'd have to say there must be some reason the trail was routed that way. I sure don't have a reason. Both the current and old AT are on Federal Land so they did not have to move it off private property. Any way you cut it, it's one hell of a welcome to North Carolina. Considering all of the comments about it in Muskrat Shelter's register, I'd say more than a few thru-hikers agree with me.

When we arrived here at Muskrat, we were really beat. It was 5:00 and we'd only come twelve miles. The Grind really took it out of us. A good meal and rest has done much to restore our spirits.

Today we hiked up from Dick's Creek Gap and stopped for lunch at Plum Orchard Shelter. It is a great shelter. It has three stories and on the top story there are windows on either side. We talked to the Georgia trail maintenance crew during lunch. Afterward we started up the trail to Muskrat Creek Shelter. About a quarter mile past the state line, we started up a steep climb. We just about died. We saw a peacock on the top of the killer hill and we took some pictures of it. We got into Muskrat Creek Shelter around 5:00 and just laid back and relaxed.