Evening on Joe Mary Lake, Maine

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Day 4 - Tuesday, June 17

Jarrard Gap to Neel's Gap

Linda "Red Rainbow"

We broke camp and started out before 8:00. Didn’t need to hurry much, because it was only five miles to Neel’s Gap. The sun was shining first thing this morning, which was great, because we were hoping for a view off Blood Mt. It’s supposed to have spectacular views, but yesterday we wouldn’t have been able to see a thing.

The trail past Slaughter Gap and up Blood was beautiful. We’d gained most of our elevation yesterday, so there were no terrible climbs. The last mile up Blood from Slaughter Gap was rocky. Not just little rocks, but huge slabs of rock. The azaleas, rhodies and laurels were in full bloom, so provided a spectacular lining beside the trail. The stone shelter on top is a massive structure, but I wouldn’t want to stay there unless it was an emergency. It’s sooty, dirty and dark, but would probably look pretty good in a storm. The sun was shining brightly when we first arrived at the top. Couldn’t have timed it better. We climbed up on the rocks and took several pictures, then found a nice open spot on the rocks to stretch out and relax. Stayed there, drinking in the view and fending off the bugs until the clouds began to roll in.

Ronald and I neither one have any recollection of Blood Mt. We must have crossed it in ’77, and can’t figure out why we don’t remember the views, or a prominent feature like the huge stone cabin on top. It sure looks old enough to have been here then. Will have to go back and read our journal for that day. They say the memory is the first thing to go…

Arrived at Neel’s Gap and Walasi-Yi Center by 11:15. Our supply box was there, right on schedule, plus a letter from my brother Randy. Yea! Real mail. He also sent a phone card to keep in touch. Really appreciated that, because I’m sure we’ll spend a fortune on long distance calls this summer. I don’t even want to think about it.

Walasi-Yi is a prime place for hikers to resupply or regroup. Since it’s most thru-hikers’ first stop, it’s become the place to do a reality check. They send home all the "stuff" they never should have brought in the first place, and can buy almost anything they forgot. The store is like a mini-REI, with a great selection of backpacking equipment, supplies and clothing. Plus, they also have food, mountain crafts, gifts, etc. It’s quite a place. Fortunately, we were all set for equipment, and were only sending home film and a few small things. We bought lunch stuff, film, drinks, snacks, and a pint of Ben & Jerry’s (haven’t worked up the appetite for one apiece, yet).

We had reservations at Goose Creek Cabins, down the road about three miles. We called, and they said someone would be up to get us. Right about then, the skies opened up, and it just poured. We were so grateful to be inside, and not on top of Blood Mt. Our ride came, and we checked into Goose Creek around 1:00. Our rustic cabin is cozy and quaint with a small kitchen/living room, and a bedroom with 2 double beds. Of course, there was also a bathroom, which is where I headed first, to shower off the Georgia crud. The lodge is a great place to spend some quality relaxation time. It has lots of cozy chairs and couches with TV and board games for the more sedate, and video games and pool tables for those who want a bit more action. Brandon headed for the video games, but Ronald and I spent most of the afternoon on the big front porch, reading and writing. The rainstorm only lasted about an hour, so most of the afternoon was warm and sunny. From the porch we could enjoy the beautiful summer flowers and the fishing pond with a family of ducks.

The woman who worked the desk was charmingly southern. But she had, without a doubt, the slowest back-woods southern drawl of anyone I’ve ever heard. You have to get pretty far back up in the mountain hollers to find accents like that. If I closed my eyes, I could almost see Jody Foster as Nell, swaying her waif-like arms in the air "lahk a tay in da wihn".

Our grungy laundry was taken from us, and returned a couple hours later, clean and neatly folded. Normally, they will drive hikers into Blairsville to get groceries or dinner, but there wasn’t anyone available today. We just fixed our extra trail dinner, so it was not a big deal. Called both sets of parents just to check in. They like to keep up with where we are. Also called the Blueberry Patch to make reservations for Saturday. They said they could only take hikers on Friday night, so we decided we could do the 36 miles in three days.

About 8:30, Dream Chaser walked into the lodge. We were sure surprised to see her. She’d done a 14-mile day to get here, and was really done in. She got soaked in the rainstorm, so had a miserable last few miles, but at least she got in before dark. She’s determined to continue, but has been shedding pack weight like crazy! She gave away her fuel bottle and her tent at the first shelter, and will send her stove home. Most of her clothes are cotton knits, so are pretty heavy. She’s considering getting some lightweight Coolmax or nylon clothes at Walasi-Yi in the morning. That could make a big difference.

I must admit, for all our arguing about weight, Ronald was right. Going as ultra-light as possible is making a lot of difference for us. Our packs weigh in around 25 pounds, and that’s with water and four days of food. I can’t even imagine trying to heft around a 50 pound pack!

Ron "Fallingwater"

The rain from last night held off until after the tarp was up. Even then it rained only sporadically during the night. It had stopped well before morning, but our tarp was still wet when we packed to leave. It was hard getting moving this morning. There was only five miles to cover to Neel's Gap. Half way to the gap was Blood Mountain, the tallest mountain in Georgia.

We broke camp and were hiking by 8:00. The temperature was perfect with clear blue skies. Just the kind of weather that makes for great views. The hike to the top of Blood was surprisingly easy. As we climbed, we kept expecting it to get harder at any moment. We were quite surprised and relieved when we saw the shelter on the summit. The whole climb was up beautiful switchback trails wandering through blooming Laurels and Rhododendron. I'm not sure that hiking can get too much better than this.

When we arrived on top around 9:30 the sky was beginning to get overcast. We still had time to wander around the top for some excellent views. The most amazing thing about or stay on top was that neither Linda nor I recognized a thing. It was almost as if we had never been there before. I know the shelter was there twenty years ago, but we didn't remember it. Had things changed that much? I guess we'll have to reread our journals when we get home.

By the time we left the top, clouds had rolled in obscuring all the views. It appeared that rain was on it's way so we headed down the final miles to Neel's Gap. There we'd pickup our first mail drop and some extra goodies. Shortly after we reached the gap, the skies opened up and the rain poured. We were thankful not to be out hiking in it. Instead we watched the display from the comfort of the Walasi Yi Center.

The Center is run by a couple that are former thru-hikers. They have a fantastic pack shop with all the right equipment. Each spring they help hundreds of potential thru-hikers send home tons of needless equipment. They've helped more than one hiker re-outfit when the hiker carried the wrong equipment. Fortunately our planning paid off and we didn't need to send anything home. The only thing we picked up, aside from some postcards and treats, was fifty feet of parachute cord.

Our shuttle to our home for tonight, Goose Creek Cabins, arrived before the rain stopped. Brandon and I got a nice wet wild ride in the back of the pickup while Linda road in relative comfort of the cabin. Once we arrived, the rain began to break and the sun came out again. We quickly secured our cabin and proceeded to take showers and dry out our wet gear. Much of this afternoon was spent updating our journals, writing postcards and relaxing around the lodge.

We were going to go into town for supper, but no one was available to shuttle us. Fortunately we had an extra dinner, so we didn't go hungry.

Brandon "Lucky 13"

Today we got the earliest start of them all as we headed to Neel's Gap. We hiked the 3.3 miles up to the top of Blood Mountain in about one and half-hours. The down side was slower going but it was only 2.1 miles down and it only took about an hour. At Neel's Gap we got pop, candy and I bought the ice cream for myself even though dad was supposed to. Mom call the campground and a guy in a pickup picked us up about a half and hour later. The ride in the back of the truck was wet because it had just started raining. But it was not too bad. When we got to the camping area mom checked us into a cabin that is really rustic. It is great. The main lodge is cool, they have arcade games and two pool tables (although dad didn't want to play pool). The place is called Goose Creek Campground and it says that on just about everything. It sure is fun though.

 


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