Day 94 - Wednesday, September 14

Linda

We broke camp and started our hiking day about 7:45. Again, we had no idea how long it would take us to get off the ridge and into Newport, but we hoped it would be before noon. The trail was consistently a nuisance - no different than the day before - with rocks and briars, etc. About 9:30 we passed a sign for a campsite loop trail which said it was 4.5 miles to Newport. Our progress was so slow over this terrain, we thought we'd never get there. At one point we crossed a powerline clearing and took a break to enjoy our first view of the valley around Newport. It was another clear, sunny day and the gentle breeze inspired the clouds to put on a show for us.

After leaving the powerline, the trail improved immensely as it followed an old road for a bit before running back off into the woods. If the Roanoke ATC trail cutters were true to form, we were expecting a huge drop-off at the end of the ridge. Surprisingly, it didn't come, and in a few minutes we were on another dirt road, then onto a quick steep downhill to a gravel road leading to Rt. 42. We knew it was only a short walk to the store at Newport, but weren't sure exactly where the trail picked up again when it crossed the road.

Off to one side of the road we could see a big tent with a couple standing outside. We were about to ask directions, when the man yelled up asking if we needed help. They introduced themselves as Gene and Lori Barfield. As we chatted, they told us they owned 44 acres around the mountain and were living with their three daughters in the makeshift tent and their van until they could get their cabin built across the creek. They had already built a quaint swinging footbridge across the creek and were working on digging out the foundation for the cabin. Gene told us they were going into Pearisburg to shop and do laundry, but we were welcome to spend the afternoon hanging around there property while they were gone.

We hadn't considered taking off any more time so soon, but the idea was beginning to have some merit. They dropped us off at the Newport store on their way to Pearisburg. That gave us time to mull over the idea, while being slaves to our junk food addiction before withdrawal pains set in. Ronald did some calculating and figured we could take the rest of the day off and still easily make it to Pearisburg by Saturday. That settled it! We decided the area required some more careful exploring, so we would take advantage of the lovely afternoon to do just that. After a few more goodies and conversation with the locals, we walked back to the Barfield's. It was a beautiful fall day and Newport was such a peaceful, picturesque little town. One of the few remaining covered bridges is right on the trail, so we walked down there and took some pictures before the light faded. Later we lounged on the grass overlooking the creek and Barfield's huge garden and wrote in our journals.

When the Barfields returned from their errands around 3:00 we had a chance to get acquainted, and I was grateful that we decided to stay around. They are the most eclectic couple I have ever met. When Gene retired from the Navy, they decided they wanted to get away from Florida - so, they bought this land, packed up everything, moved to Newport, Virginia and set up camp. None of this waiting for the builders to finish the new house stuff for them. Not even a mobile home as temporary quarters - no, sir. They just threw huge pieces of heavy old canvas over some poles and called it home. Inside, the tent was unbelievably cluttered with everything imaginable. They cook, can and bake over a Coleman stove and wash everything in the creek. They and the youngest daughter sleep on mattresses in the tent and the two older girls live in the van. They are both HAM operators and run the HAM Radio and a little black and white portable TV off the battery in the van. Those two electronic devices appear to be their only concessions to civilization.

While we talked, Lori cooked up skillet after skillet of meat they had just bought to can, since they don't have a refrigerator. Canning is tedious enough over a regular stove, I can't imagine tackling it on a two burner Coleman stove, in a make-shift tent with no counter space or running water. That didn't seem to bother Lori. She had already put up an impressive array of the fruits and vegetables from their ample garden, and had plans to do much more before winter.

In addition to all their pioneering endeavors, they also craft the most beautiful dried apple dolls. They travel around and sell them at craft shows. We lined up several of the dolls to take a picture, but I'm sure it won't do them justice.

Later, when the girls came home from school, things really started hopping. I don't see how they manage any normal existence under those conditions, but they all seem to take it in stride. The girls seem to be having a great time, and don't miss their old lives in Florida.

Along with our chatting, we had been nibbling all afternoon, first our junk food snacks, then sampling all the different pickles and relishes Lori had put up for winter. We even had fresh tomato sandwiches. We made our own dinner while they were having a birthday dinner for one of the girls. They saved us a big piece of steak and invited us to stay for cake and ice cream, which, of course, we couldn't possibly turn down. We sat in their tent using tree stumps for stools, eating birthday cake and watching "Spider Man" on the TV which was plugged into the cigarette lighter of the van with a very long extension cord. Never in my wildest imaginings would I have envisioned this day, but I was happy to be experiencing it.

We stayed until well after dark before calling it an evening. We took our packs across the road to a picnic pavilion and rolled out the bags under the cover so we wouldn't have to put up the tent in case of rain. The evening was warm, but it was September, and the weather unpredictable. We had seen a few sprinkles in the afternoon, and wanted to be prepared.

This has been another one of those days which can never be fully described with words. The whole tone of the afternoon and evening was so comfortable and easy going. I hate to see days like this end, but they, and people like the Barfields continue to weave texture into the tapestry of our adventure.

Ron

Our journey into the unknown began around 7:45 this morning. Just like yesterday, we had the usual poor trail on the ridge. We hiked down off the ridge once on a side trail that lead to a waterless campsite. We were much impressed with the pretty blue blazes. Actually the side trail rejoined the AT sometime after the campsite. This allows you the stop and camp without having to backtrack to the AT. The problem was they forgot to put a sign at the North end of the cutoff. As a result most south bounders would hike down to the camp then back to the AT to continue.

We stopped at a powerline along the trail because it provided the only view of the entire length of the ridge. After a snack and pictures we headed off to Newport. Beyond the powerline the trail improved significantly. This was due more to the fact that it was on an old road than to the efforts of the trail builders. After a fairly easy descent we found ourselves in the valley. Not knowing the distance to the store, we asked a couple, Gene and Lori Barfield who were standing by a large tent. After giving us directions they invited us to leave our packs there while we went to the store. They dropped us off at the store as they continued on to Pearisburg to do some shopping.

At the store Linda and I began our usual pig out. We went back to the register four different times before we had secured enough to quench our hunger. The bench on the front porch served as our base camp between trips to get more. We struck up a conversation with a couple of men who were interested in our journey.

Linda and I decided to take the rest of the day off and enjoy the company of the Barfield family. We had heard of their kindness from other hikers, and felt that it would be a good opportunity to stay with people along the trail.

We spent an enjoyable afternoon with them. One by one we met each of their daughters as they arrived home from school. Two of them are teenagers and one is in grade school. They are living in a big tent now while building a log cabin. Right now they are in the process of digging the foundation by hand. The cabin is being built in a beautiful spot on the other side of the creek from the road. They constructed a swinging bridge across the stream to reach the cabin. When not building their cabin, they make dried apple head dolls to sell at craft fairs.

We had cake and ice cream this evening to celebrate the birthday of one of their daughters. The closeness of the family was evident in the actions of the girls. Five people living in a tent cannot be easy. They seem to be making the most of their situation. I hope they are successful in their endeavors.

(9 Miles - 1422.3 Total)