Day 92 - Monday, September 12

Linda

The temperature really dropped in the night, so by morning I was buried deep in my sleeping bag trying to keep warm. It was hard to get moving, but we had a long day ahead, so we finally rolled out. Pat had built a fire, and we warmed ourselves in the glow while eating breakfast. We left about 7:40 and warmed up quickly on the first climb. Did the roller coaster routine of winding up and winding down, but not on switchbacks, just around trees. At least we were rewarded for our efforts. As we followed along Tinker Cliffs we were treated to beautiful views of the valley below. The sky was unbelievably clear and blue.

A little later we came off an old road and and shot straight up for a quarter mile huffer puffer, but McAfee Knob at the top was gorgeous. The rock formations were really intriguing , and the panoramas in all directions were amazing. We could have spent the entire day exploring around the area. There were many great campsites right by the ledges, but that wasn't our evening destination, so after taking a few pictures and drinking in the view, we continued down toward Catawba. The last 2 miles were on a dirt road, which made for quick walking.

Along the way we met a salty old man from Pennsylvania, hiking with his dog. He told us he was out hiking to "improve his health or drop dead", as he so delicately phrased it. He started at Duncannon and hopes to get to Georgia, but has no timetable. Talked to him for a few minutes, then went on. Got to Rt. 311 at Catawba and had lunch at a wayside by Buck Sweeney's Mt. Top Inn. Unfortunately Buck was closed on Mondays so we couldn't go in. Two highway maintenance guys who had been mowing along the side of the road with huge mowers were stopped for lunch also. They gave us some tea, since we were low on water.

The next 10 miles was supposed to be very dry, and we didn't want to get caught short, so we stopped at a house to get water. We thought we had done some heavy climbing in the morning, but apparently that was just an appetizer to what the afternoon had in store for us. The trail started steeply up a ridge right after the wayside, and took us over a long series of short cardiac arrest ups followed by knee-buster downs. This went on for 3 miles, then, at the end of the ridge, the bottom dropped out. One minute we were standing on the ridge - then, in a huge cloud of dust, we were at the bottom in a pasture. Whoever cuts these trails must believe in the economy of steps by not adding even one extra foot in switchbacks. I've not seen such steep trails in hundreds of miles. Walking through the pasture was quite pleasant after the ridge. We stopped at a road about 2:45 and took a break. Due to relocations in the area, we weren't quite sure how far it was to Trout Creek Shelter, but thought it was about 6 or 7 miles.

It turned out to be 8 very rough miles, then the trail was rerouted away from the shelter. It's now a half mile away on a side trail. If we had arrived earlier in the day, we would have appreciated the next section much more. Dragon's Tooth was an interesting rocky ridge, with many good views. But the great amounts of climbing involved, added to the fact that we were getting tired, made a bad combination. To top it all off, we were never quite sure where we were. We figured to get to the shelter by 6:00, but at 6:00 we were still on the last ridge after Dragon's Tooth, winding our way around over ups and downs, longing for the end to our misery. We finally got to the creek at 6:45, only to be greeted by a sign stating that we still had a half mile more before we could rest for the night.

We started trudging down the road, then lost the blue blazes. A man at a cabin along the trail told us which way to turn, then said we'd better get some water from him, since the creek was dry. We filled up, then he gave us some iced tea, which refreshed us enough to go on. We walked on to the shelter and fixed dinner just before dark. There was some information on the relocations ahead, but it was very sketchy, so not of much use. It gave us approximate mileage to a few points, but no trail descriptions. Seems like the least they could do is furnish some helpful trail data, so hikers could know what to expect. Ronald figured we did about 22 miles today, but there's no way to be sure. We haven't seen terrain with as much climbing since the Mahoosucs or the Whites in Maine and New Hampshire. And it doesn't stop here - tomorrow will continue the saga.

Ron

The chilly temperatures last night kept us well down into our sleeping bags. Morning finally broke but did little to warm us. Fortunately Pat got a fire going and soon we were up and moving. With all our chores completed, we were on our way by 7:40. Whatever chill we had in the morning was quickly lost on the climb up Tinker Mountain. The trail made a short but strenuous ascent. Unlike many climbs, once on top we were rewarded with spectacular views. We stood atop Tinker Cliffs high above the valley, gazing upon one of the best views in a long time.

The rain of the previous week had cleared away the haze. I stood there amazed at the number of ranges of mountains that lay before us. I had never realized just how mountainous this area was. The trail followed the cliffs along the edge of the mountain. As we hiked we were treated to a variety of views. After a short descent from the cliffs we were on another ridge. The guide book called for a steep ascent up McAfee Knob so we stopped along a fire road for an energy break. For once the "extremely steep" description in the guide book matched the trail. Much to our relief it was also fairly short.

Again we were rewarded with views that were, in my opinion, the best I've seen since New England. Had time been more abundant I would have devoted an entire day to those rock cliffs. As it was we only had time for a few pictures before heading on. Along the fire road we met an interesting character. He was out hiking after a work accident had left him partially disabled. He said hiking had done him wonders in helping him recover his coordination.

We pressed on to Route 311 and Catawba for lunch. When we arrived at Sweeny's Mountain Top Inn it was closed so we weren't able to get any special treats for lunch. We did pick up some tea from a couple of road workers stopped for lunch. After 311 the trail left the smooth ridge and made like a roller coaster for the next three miles. Rising, falling, twisting and turning, we were finally poured out into the valley after a long decent. We waded through thousands of jumping grasshoppers to the road to take a much needed break.

The trail climbed a minor ridge then back to the road before we began the ascent to Dragons Tooth. The two mile climb seem unusually long to us. Later we found that a relocation not mentioned in the guide had added a mile. By the time we reached the top we were weak. Our day had already been filled with too many ups and down and we could see weren't through yet. From Dragons Tooth on, the trail was one big relocation. We had no idea of how much further it was to the shelter. I knew the trail followed the crest of Cove Mountain and I could tell from the view off Dragons Tooth we had a long way to go.

By now we were both running on a promise and a prayer. A promise that there was a lean-to and a prayer that we would make it by dark. The only reason we could keep on hiking was because of our months of conditioning. On we drove, ignoring views, descents, ascents and pain. Our concentration was focused on placing one foot in front of the other as fast and safely as possible. One by one we passed each knob until we began our descent into the valley. Not knowing the whereabouts of the lean-to, I was hoping we would find a sign. Someone left a note on a Forest Service sign on the other side of Trout Creek. It said the shelter was a half mile down a blue blazed trail. We just stood there wandering if it was worth the effort.

Fortunately the shelter was only a quarter mile away. On the side trail here we passed a gentleman who informed us that the lean-to was dry. We filled our water containers from his well and he kindly gave us a couple of cans of iced tea. Re-hydrated and refreshed we made the rest of the trek to the shelter.

(21.8 Miles - 1396.3 Total)