Day 89 - Friday, September 9

Linda

I'm beginning to think of us as Joe Btfspflk (or whatever his name is) from 'Lil Abner. He was the guy with the black cloud over his head bringing rain wherever he went. For hundreds of miles we've been hearing how dry Virginia has been this summer. Temperatures in the 90's or higher, gardens and crops drying up, hikers having a hard time finding water, etc. Then we get here, and what happens? A few hot days in Northern Virginia - then rain, rain, rain! And not just a little either! It started out with a few sprinkles over the weekend while we were at Peaks of Otter, then a little more on Monday, a bit more on Tuesday, then by Wednesday it had progressed to torrents, and has continued getting worse ever since. Yesterday, while we were sitting at the shelter, the rain stopped for a while, but it was still very wet. It managed not to rain last night, and wasn't raining when we woke up this morning. However, the minute we started hiking, the rain started again, and progressed to another first class downpour by the time we reached High Cock Knob. It was another soggy walk over rocks through overgrown vegetation, down to Petit Gap. Had some more of it part way up Thunder Ridge, but that trail did have a few good clear stretches. By then it was too late, though, and my socks were squishing with every step from where the water had dripped off the bushes. The temperature was steadily dropping and when we stopped for a break after 6.9 miles we were once again soaked and cold.

We were getting close to another stretch of trail we had already hiked, and were going to forego this time around. We figured we'd go to the Parkway and try to get a ride around to Bearwallow Gap. Getting a ride was easier said than done, though, since a foggy, rainy, cold day after tourist season on the Blue Ridge Parkway, is not a prime time to be hitchhiking. We got up and down Apple Orchard Mountain with relative ease, then stood in the wind and rain looking down at our feet and each other for what seemed like forever. We saw very few cars, and unfortunately the ones we saw were not stopping to pick up cold, wet backpackers. Finally gave up standing and walked down the short distance to Cornelius Creek Shelter to dry off, fix some hot soup and decide what to do next. We had originally planned to do another 10 miles to Wilson Creek Shelter, so we could be in Cloverdale tomorrow morning and hit the Travelodge buffet. I don't think that's in our future now.

At the shelter there was a guy named Rick from Petersburg. He'd been there a couple days trying to let a blister heal and wait out the rain before going on. As we sat at the shelter, we could tell by the lack of traffic sounds from the Parkway that it would have been futile to go out there again. We called it another short day and enjoyed the afternoon chatting and eating, and staying warm and dry. Ronald and Rick walked over to a nearby orchard and picked some apples, so we munched on them for a while, then fried up a batch with butter and sugar. Ummmm! This really shoots a hole in our plans, but why fight it, since there's nothing we can do about it. Will try for another ride in the morning, and if no luck then, we'll walk the road around, and lose another day. Sure hope it clears up tomorrow.

Ron

When we awoke this morning, we had every intention of making good miles. The weather and other factors just would not cooperate with us. After a fine start around 8:00, we were stopped dead in our tracks within five minutes. The rain that had vanished yesterday afternoon was back. We quickly donned our rain gear and were off again. The climbing was steady and the rain did little to impede our progress. Just before the top of High Cock Knob the trail conditions disintegrated. The overgrown weeds slapped our legs and the water dripped down into our boots. We were soaked when we arrived at Petites Gap.

From the gap, the trail switch-backed it way up to Thunder Ridge. It was one the longest and most consistent climbs we had made in a while. The four and a half miles to Thunder Hill Lean-to seemed to stretch on forever. Our breakfast energy had long been depleted when we arrived.

On the trail to the lean-to I spent a great deal of time contemplating the rain. I needed to find some mental peace in these conditions which physically racked my body. On those occasions when I could divert my eyes from watching for rocks on the trail, I would view the forest through which we traveled. The thick fog cast a ghostly spell all around us. As I tried to further divorce mind from body, I entered a new world. The leaves hung heavy with their burden and glistened in the light. The gentle methodical beat of the rain soothed the ears, while the soft contours of the scene played on my eyes. I had entered a world that I had only viewed from the outside before. My stay in this world was all too short. The physical act of moving interrupted the mental peace through which I walked. Am I waxing philosophical, or what?

At Thunder Ridge, we ate to restore our energy. Looking out at the falling rain from the lean-to, we had little incentive to venture out again. Slowly the chill of wet clothes claimed the warmth left from our exertion in the morning. We bundled up as best we could and set off for Parkers Gap. From Parkers Gap we hoped to secure a ride around a 15 mile section we had hiked a year earlier.

At Parkers Gap, we found a deserted Blue Ridge Parkway, dense fog, wind and cold rain. Only occasionally did cars pass, with no inclination to pick up a couple of wet hikers. We stayed for a half and hour and accomplished little except to get colder. With no hope for a ride, we took off down the parkway. At the side road to Cornelius Creek Lean-to we called it quits for today. We hiked the short distance here from the Parkway, hoping that tomorrow would provide better weather and more traffic.

When we arrived another Southbound hiker was already here. He has only been out for a few days and decided to hole up here out of the rain to let his blisters heal. Later this afternoon we went out an picked some apples from an old orchard nearby. We came back and fried them up and spent the rest of the afternoon talking. All in all the day could have been worse.

(10.8 Miles - 1343.9 Total)