Evening on Rainbow Lake, Maine

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Day 80 - Wednesday, August 31

Linda

Got a little later start at 8:00 this morning, but made it down to Milam Gap, then up over Hazeltop with little trouble. Came down to Bootens Gap, then over Bear Fence Mountain. We were pretty dry by then, so we stopped by Bear Fence Shelter, or rather crawled down the steep trail to the shelter, only to find a scummy mud puddle where the spring should have been. Fortunately Lewis Mountain Campground was only a mile away, so we went down there and occupied a campsite for a while. Also picked up a loaf of wheat bread at the camp store. It's a pleasant campground, and much smaller than the ones at Big Meadows and Loft Mountain.

From there we went down to Pocosin Cabin, but didn't stop because someone was staying there. Had a short quickie rock climb over a nameless hump, then a long gradual uphill to Baldface. Ronald got a second wind about then and took off flying. I was moving very well, too, but couldn't catch him. He finally stopped to wait for me. He just wanted to see what he could do on an uphill. Too bad he wasn't racing toward a view. We thought that with a name like Baldface, there should be an overlook, but we couldn't see much. From there we went down to the South River Picnic Grounds for lunch. Sat and watched family after family come dragging up with their tongues hanging out from a side trail to South River Falls. The trail is a little steep, but it's hard not to be a bit of a hiking snob when we see out of shape people killing themselves on short hikes. And the ironic thing about this trail is that the falls are dry this time of year, so they are killing themselves for nothing. Oh, well, I was in the same condition not too long ago. Also talked to a British man who was wondering what part of the trail would be good to do if you had six weeks. He's planning on coming back next year in July and August. He sounded like he'd done a lot of hiking in England.

We left the picnic grounds about 1:30 and followed the trail down for a ways, then up a short climb to Saddleback Mountain. The descent to Rt. 33 was pretty steep, though, and Ronald had to stop on the other side of Saddleback to work on his feet before going on. Our next big climb was up High Top. Both of us were hot, and we figured we'd poop out, but the climb went by quickly, and we still managed to keep up a 3 mph pace. Ronald got to the top first and waited on some rocks for me, but he didn't have to wait long. There wasn't much of a breeze, and it was still too hazy for a good view, so we went on the half mile to High Top Shelter. The spring was barely trickling, but at least it was water, so we decided to eat dinner there, even though it was only 4:00. Fixed our last macaroni and cheese and pistachio pudding and relaxed until about 5:30.

When we left after dinner, we weren't sure how far we'd get, but figured we'd walk till we were tired. Walked down to Smith Roach Gap, then up little Roundtop Mountain and across a ridge before going down to Powell's Gap. There is a long climb from there to the ridge which goes by Flattop Mountain. It was about 7:00 when we got to the crest of the ridge. Started to look for a good campsite, but everything off the trail was rocky or covered with thick underbrush. Finally came to a spot just big enough for the tent right alongside the trail. We figured it was far enough away from the road that no one (especially Ricky Ranger) would come by. If they had, they would have tripped over the tent lines. It was a beautiful spot. Not 15 feet away, right across the trail, was our own personal rock ledge with a gorgeous view of the valley. A wonderful warm breeze was blowing across the rocks. Both of us had sweated so much in the past few days that our shirts were stiff, and the salt on our backs felt like thousands of tiny pins. We took turns washing off each other's backs which helped a little, but what we really needed was a good hot shower and clean clothes. Those, we hope, will come tomorrow. We sat on the rocks writing and enjoying the tranquillity of the evening until dark, then went to bed. We should be in Waynesboro tomorrow night. Total for today was 21.6 miles.

Ron

After a late start, we were moving well on the climb up Hazel Top Mountain. We stopped at Bear Fence Mountain Lean-to go get water, but the spring was dry. We walked on to Lewis Mountain Campground where we got water and a loaf of bread. We ate a few snacks and headed to Baldface Mountain. I was hoping there would be some good overlooks so we could have a view with our lunch. There were no views when we arrived, so we pressed on and stopped at South River picnic grounds for lunch. There were rest rooms with full facilities at the picnic area. We both took full advantage of them.

We talked for a few minutes with an English man, here on vacation. He was interested in hiking some long sections of the trail. He wanted to know what areas we would recommend (certainly not Pennsylvania). The rest of the trail to Swift Run Gap was quick and easy. By the time we arrived at the gap my foot was giving me trouble. We made a short stop for me to place some cotton between my toes to relieve the pressure.

The heat and humidity of the afternoon made us leery of the big climb we were expecting. We knew we'd be dragging by the time we reached the top. Much to our surprise the first mile flew by. Okay, we said, the big climb comes in the last mile and a half. We geared down and flew the rest of the way to the top. I was feeling good and wanted to see how fast I could hike on graded trails. Before long I was at the top wondering where the climb was. Linda arrived shortly and we stood on top enjoying the hazy view.

We stopped for supper at High Top Shelter, because it was the only place with sufficient water. After supper we climbed Little Round Top Mountain, crossed Powell's Gap and stopped on the ridge a half mile from the gap. Because of the lack of good campsites, we broke a park rule and camped right on the trail. We sat on a rock overlook about fifteen feet from our tent and worked on our logs as sun set.

(21.6 Miles - 1250.9 Total)

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