Day 78 - Monday, August 29

Linda

We managed to get moving by 7:15 and huffed and puffed the rest of the way up the ridge into the park. At the entrance, we were greeted by a sign board with scores of park rules and regulations. I realize the rules are probably necessary, since this is such a popular area, but it was very uninviting, nonetheless. Just after Compton Gap was where the climbing really starts. We haven't done much real mountain climbing since leaving New England. New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania are a lot of ridge running and roads, but not a lot of steep, high climbs. Now that we are in the Blue Ridge, we're back in to the bigger mountains. By 9:30 we were both sapped by the heat, so we stopped along Skyline Drive for a pick-me-up break.

After climbing North Marshall we stopped on top for our first unobstructed view of the day. The sky was hazy, which is common, and is part of what gives the Blue Ridge its characteristic blue cast, but the view was still impressive. South Marshall was a small climb, but on top it had a rock ledge which was a perfect place to sit and drink in the scene. We met a father and daughter out hiking. They were taking over a week to do the Shenandoahs so they could relax and enjoy it. Talked to them for a few minutes, then started toward Gravelly Springs Shelter for water. We were going to try for Hogback Mountain for lunch, but it was almost noon when we got to the shelter, so we ate there. Just before the shelter we saw a timber rattler. It's the first one I've actually come across without being warned first by oncoming hikers. Fortunately, I did see it before it saw me, and I stopped dead in my tracks. It quickly coiled up and started to rattle, but by the time Ronald caught up, it was starting to move off the trail, so we had no trouble getting around. I'm sure it didn't want an encounter any more than I did, but my heart was sure pounding there for a minute.

After lunch, we crossed over Peaks 1, 2, 3 and 4 of Hogback Mountain. We couldn't tell much difference between them, but someone must be able to. My little toes were feeling the pinch, so I stopped for a foot repair job, then we more or less flew another 1.3 miles to the road above Matthew's Arm Campground to the Ranger Station. We were supposed to get our backcountry permits there (didn't want to break any of the myriad of rules and regulations). Went into the Ranger Station, and were informed that they were out of permits. What a bite! At first the ranger told us to go down a half mile to the campground to get one, but then he said he'd drive us when he finished his lunch. When we got to the campground, the ranger there told us that through hikers don't need back country permits, but since we were there, he'd go ahead and issue us one anyway. An even bigger bite! Can't believe we wasted all that time trying to follow their rules, and they can't even agree on what the rules are themselves. I doubt they even appreciated our extra effort. The ranger issued us two separate permits, because Ronald was planning on doing a 24 hour marathon hike by himself starting tomorrow.

We were walking again by 2:50 after wasting about 45 minutes. Passed by Elk Wallow Shelter without stopping. Jeremy's Run, which has a stream at the bottom was dry. Ronald was surprised because that's the area where he had hiked with Becky and Len in February, and it was knee deep then. Shows just how dry the summer has been. Almost died from the humidity going up to Byrd's Nest #4 Shelter, but the spring there was dry also, so it offered no respite. Trudged on another .6 mile to a spring which was just barely a trickle, but was clear and cold. Ronald collapsed near a tree, and I went to fill the bottles for dinner. Ronald had this bright idea about night hiking. He thought it would be neat to rest for a couple hours, then hike on after dark to Mary's Rocks. I wasn't wild about the idea, but I agreed, just because I'd never done it before, and the trail was wide and well graded. While we were still resting, Rand came chugging by. Said he'd decided to burn Vibram for a while and take off some days in Charlottesville, so he'd been averaging 25 to 30 miles a day. Can't figure the guy out. One day he's so down he collapses by the trail and can't move at all, then the next he's burning out 30 mile days. Go figure! He continued on to the Pass Mountain area, and we sat around until 7:30 before leaving.

It was completely dark when we reached Pass Mountain. We did have some light going up, but coming down all I could see was Ronald ahead of me. I finally turned on the flashlight for the rest of the way. That helped illuminate the trail, but it gave everything around an eerie surrealistic glow. A storm started brewing and when the thunder and lightening started, I decided I didn't want to be on the rocks, so we set up the tent in a less than level pine area at Thornton Gap. Maybe this storm will clear the air and lower the humidity for tomorrow. I can only hope. And just for the record, I much prefer hiking in the daylight.

Ron

After over a month of hiking on ridges and small hills, today we entered Shenandoah National Park and the Shenandoah Mountains. This is the first real range of mountains we have hiked since Vermont. We entered the park early this morning anxious to see what it had to offer. Ascending and descending seemed to be the order of the day. The wide trail make hiking easy.

We stopped at one of the numerous crossing of the Skyline Drive by the AT for a snack break. Well fortified we climbed North Marshall. At South Marshall we stopped to admire the view. After weeks of low ridge walking with no views, it's good to feel yourself back in the mountains. For lunch, we stopped at Gravelly Spring Lean-to. I was there last February on a trip to the mountains. I was amazed on how much easier the climb was up to the lean-to this time. The miles rolled by easily to the ranger station at Matthew's Arm campground.

Being the good and honest hikers we are, we stopped in to pick up our wilderness permits. We were informed that they were out of permits. I was informed that I could walk a half mile down to the campground and pick one up there. Well there was no way I was going to walk any more out of my way for a permit. After all, we had already taken the initiative to go out of our way to get there. The least they could do was have them at the station. I said thanks but I'd pick them up at Thornton Gap. The ranger did not want us to leave without the permit. He agreed to drive us down and back. At the campground, we were told that through hikers did not need permits. Or at least that's what that ranger thought. Since no one really knew, we got them anyway. I wasn't particularly thrilled at wasting 45 minutes to get a permit I may not need.

After the delay the miles did not fly so fast. The heat of the day was playing tricks on our pace. By the time we made it up to Byrd's Nest Shelter #4, I was beat. After a little rest I hiked down to the spring for water. It was getting too late to make our original destination of Mary's Rock. We decided to eat dinner there and hike some after.

During dinner I suggested that we take a long break and get well rested. Afterward we would try a little hiking after dark. Linda was not too keen on the idea but agreed to try. The trails in the park are several feet wide and clean. It was still quite light when we left the shelter. Darkness finally overtook us on Pass Mountain. I could see very well in the dim light and we hiked for some time before breaking out the flashlights. Since Linda could not see with me in front and carrying the flashlight, she would walk in front of me. I would shine the light far enough ahead for both of us to see the trail. I had wanted to try night hiking for some time and figured the easiest place to try it would be in the park. I knew we would need something better than our standard AA flashlights. At Harper's Ferry I got a big three D cell flashlight from Wally. Today seemed as good as any to try night hiking. I think I liked the experience more than Linda.

As the evening progressed the sound of thunder and flashes of lightening intensified. It seemed evident that a storm was near when we reached the gap. We decide to pitch our tent right off the trail, rather that risk continuing under these conditions.

(24.4 Miles - 1210 Total)