Day 55 - Saturday, August 6

Linda

Got on the trail around 7:15 and took a leisurely pace since we didn't have far to go. The trail continued on roads for a few miles, and at one point we met four people collapsed on the trail for a break. We stopped to talk and they told us they had only been out for a weekender, but had stumbled into Graymoor last night. Hearing their descriptions of the people and the food only made us want to get there faster. The last 2.5 miles were on trail rather than roads, and even though it was a bit steep and rocky, we were motivated to keep moving. From the road, the monastery's main complex is up a long steep drive, and by the time we got up to the top, we were dragging from the climb and the heat of the day.

All of our weariness quickly dissipated when we finally arrived at the Monastery. We were greeted with a degree of warmth and kindness we rarely experience. It was everything we heard about and more - almost to the point of defying description. They were truly gracious hosts to all travelers any time of year, but coincidentally we arrived on a special weekend. It turned out to be the weekend they were installing the new Father General and his Council who will be provide the leadership of Graymoor for the next four years. That made it like Inaugural Day, with all the festivities to go along with such an auspicious occasion. In other words - party time!!

We hadn't really been pushing to get there by lunch time, but we arrived around noon, and were directed to the receptionist who told us our rooms wouldn't be ready until 4:00 pm. We decided to wander by the dining room and see what we would find. We went in just to ask for water, and didn't really expect to be invited for lunch, but as soon as they saw us, we were told to help ourselves, as lunch was being served buffet style today, and they had more than enough. Well, they didn't have to ask us twice! We feasted on tossed salad, lasagna, several kinds of fresh breads, and lemonade. Remembering the misery we felt after pigging out at Thayer Hall at Dartmouth, we ate slowly and cautiously, but stayed until we couldn't eat any more. We talked with several of the friars who were more than cordial and made us feel right at home. At least for this weekend, the place had more of an atmosphere of a resort hotel than a monastery.

After lunch we took the camera and went out to tour the grounds and walk off lunch. There are several public chapels on the beautifully manicured grounds. A network of paths meander through the gardens, and we meandered along with them, from chapel to chapel - garden to garden - bench to bench. As we were wandering, we met the bean sprout guy from the night before. He and his sprouts had bombed out and he had hitched a ride up there again to retrieve a bowl he'd forgotten, and to look for us for advice on how to get himself together better. He followed us around quizzing us for quite a while, then went on. It was a strange encounter. We weren't sure if he would make it very far, but it seemed doubtful. There seemed to be some large gaps in his logic, that could be disastrous on a long-term hike - but we wished him the best anyway.

Later, we visited their bookstore to get some cards, and picked up some ice cream at the snack bar. We came back inside just as a rainstorm hit. Father Bosco, who acted as our host, took us to our rooms in the old friary and showed us around a bit. As soon as we were settled, we ran for the showers which were fantastic! They also had a washer and dryer for our use. We had just finished cleaning up when one of the friars came and said we should come down for dinner. We had already been told that because of the huge crowd at the banquet, we would be eating in the employees dining room, off the kitchen. We went down and sat there for an hour, more or less forgotten, salivating over the huge racks of breads, fresh from the oven. Just about the time we were beginning to wonder if they had forgotten us, another friar came in and escorted us back upstairs to the dining room. There were no other hikers there today and they had room for us at the banquet after all. Dinner was just being served, so we hadn't missed a thing except speeches. What a meal! This truly was a feast! We started out with cantaloupe and fruit cocktail, then the main course of tender roast steamship round, stuffed baked potatoes and fresh green beans, mounds of their fresh baked bread, wine, then apple pie for dessert. We had a wonderful time at the banquet - luscious food and lively conversation. We were seated across from a group of novices, and enjoyed talking with them. After a brief speech making time, they announced that there would be a reception in the recreation room later.

We figured we had already had been shown more than our share of special treatment, and headed back to our rooms. Ronald discovered he had locked his key in his room, and when Father Bosco brought up the master key, he invited us down to mingle. We blithely followed him, not suspecting what we were in for. I never dreamed Catholics were such party animals - especially not Franciscan monks. Boy, was I ever wrong! The rec room was set up with a full bar and a bartender, and there was more food everywhere. You'd never guess everyone had just come from a banquet an hour earlier. We couldn't believe we were in. . .a monastery? Shows how incorrect stereotypes can be. Someone was sitting at a baby grand playing Irish songs, and pretty soon everyone was singing along - swaying and drinking - like they were down at Clancy's Corner Bar.

We talked with one of the young friars who is studying for the priesthood, and another who had graduated from VCU in 1968 with a degree in business. Some of the sisters from the convent at the bottom of the hill were there too, so we had plenty of people to chat with. It was hard to take it all in. We finally tore ourselves away to call home and check in with the parents. Also tried to reach John Babcock, our friend from Richmond who was supposed to be coming up to Stoney Point, New York. He planned to meet us the next day for a visit, but we needed to confirm the time, etc. He wasn't there, so went back to our rooms for a while, then tried John again, but still no luck. We'll try him early tomorrow. Before retiring for the night, we made one last trip to the 24-hour snack bar for milk and donuts. Then, off to bed - each in our own little room in the old friary. This has truly been a wonderful day. The friars have been gracious and giving, and asked nothing in return. Very seldom do you find a place like this.

Ron

Except for the short hike this morning, today is considered a rest day. We hiked the ten miles here to Graymoor by noon. We were well rewarded for our speed by a lunch of lasagna and fresh tossed salad. This was washed down with ice cold milk. We spent the afternoon relaxing and walking around the grounds. We both got long showers and had access to a laundry for our clothes. I went around drinking water from about every fountain in the place. After the hot weather and bad water of the last few days I couldn't get enough. I believe that the water at Graymoor is the best I've ever had.

Graymoor Monastery is located on top of a hill overlooking the Hudson river. Across the river is the famed West Point. It is a beautiful place, and a destination for many of the faithful from New York city (some fifty miles away). We were fortunate to arrive on a special occasion. Tonight was a celebration to honor the new Father General and Council. It is a major event they hold only once every four years. We had been told that because of the occasion there wouldn't be enough room in the dinning room for hikers tonight, we would be eating in a separate area. That would not have bothered us at all considering quality and quantify of food to eat.

As it turned out, no other hikers arrived and we were invited to dine with the monks. The dinner was a fantastic affair. It started with a quarter cantaloupe filled with fruit cocktail. We quickly progressed to wine, roast beef, stuffed bake potatoes, green beans and pie for desert. Not knowing what was coming on later we ate extra cantaloupe and pie.

After dinner and the elaborate ceremony we took off to our rooms (since this a monastery we had separate cubicles) to check things out before going to bed. Father Bosco came by to unlock the room because I had locked my key in. He invited us to come on down to the recreation room to mingle with the monks and nuns. When we arrived we weren't sure if we could believe our eyes. There was a complete bar setup and tables around the room filled with platters of food. I was a little sorry I'd stuffed at dinner. We sat around chatting with the monks and sisters and letting dinner settle. One monk was busy at the piano belting our old Irish songs while the sisters were dancing.

Somehow the scene played before us did not match with our preconceived notions of monastic life. After a thoroughly wonderful evening we finally got the rest of our laundry together and headed off to the sack at 10:00.

(10.2 Miles - 762.4 Total)